Sicily - an island at the crossroads of history

From Beaches to the Mountain Tops - And Everything In Between

Sicily has thousands of years of history at the crossroads of different cultures. Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Arabs, Normans... All have ruled there in their time.

It also has many hundreds of years of history as a tourist destination. Goethe went there. Oscar Wilde wrote about Palermo that it is "the most beautifully situated town in the world."

Still, when it comes to modern tourism, people have just started to find this biggest island in the Mediterranean.

Sunset in Cefalu, SicilyA couple is watching a sunset in Cefalu, one of the more popular destinations in Sicily.

Sicily differs from the rest of Italy because of its culture and landscape. There are variances between different parts of the island, too. Depending on where you are, you can see beautiful beaches, volcanic terrain, mountains, and forests.

Old traditions live on in the market culture that dates back to Arab times. The food is delicious and like nowhere else.

The urban heartbeat in the cities charms with its robustness. Memories of ancient times live in the middle of everyday life. Wineries offer a diverse selection of quality local wines.

History is everywhere: in the songs of street vendors, centuries-old delicacies, and architectural masterpieces.

Ballaro Market in Palermo, SicilyBallaro Market in Palermo has been active for over a thousand years.

Some Facts About Sicily

Sicily is an island in the southern part of Italy. It has about 5 million inhabitants.

The weather in Sicily is mostly sunny. The best time to visit Sicily depends on what you want.

In winter, it is cloudier and cool. It might be a good time if you are not a big fan of crowds.

Springtime sees many traditional festivals around the island. 

In the summer the place is crowded. And hot. Very hot. 

The early autumn is still a good time for swimming and sunbathing. 

San Vito lo Capo in early OctoberBeach Resort of San Vito lo Capo in early October. Not crowded, but warm.

There are two international airports in Sicily: in Palermo and Catania. You can also reach Sicily by land and sea.

Arriving by train or car requires crossing the Strait of Messina. This crossing, a few kilometers long, is made by ferry.

Within Sicily, you can travel by car, bus, or train.

Millions of tourists visit Sicily every year. This number is increasing all the time.

See also:

Best Time to Visit Sicily

Is Sicily Safe?

Sicily Weather Around the Year

Sicily Weather in Winter

Palermo AirportArriving at Palermo Airport.

History of Sicily - Thousands of Years of Blood and Suffering

Sicily's better-known history begins with the arrival of the Greeks around 700 BC.

After them came the Romans, the Arabs, the Normans, and the kings of France and Spain.

Sicily also had one of the first Jewish communities in Europe. Jews formed about 10% of the population - until the Spanish Inquisition expelled them from the island. 

When Italy was unified in 1860, the Sicilians saw the new state as another oppressor. And with a good reason. The government in the North saw the fertile South as a mere land to be exploited.

More:

History of Sicily

The Emirate of Sicily

Jews in Sicily

Garibaldi arriving at MarsalaThe unification of Italy started with Giuseppe Garibaldi's arrival at Marsala. He and his thousand soldiers.

One consequence of the unification of Italy was the birth of the Mafia. It is a criminal organization, inspired by Masonic rituals. For a long time, people considered it to be only a myth.

Mussolini was the first to make a serious attempt to destroy it. This effort came to an end when the Allied forces invaded Sicily in the latter stages of the Second World War.

After the war ended, the Mafia gathered strength. This fast growth of the organization led to an era of Mafia wars in the 1970s and 1980s.

The era of the organization's greatest power came to an end with large-scale trials in the 1990s. 

No Mafia

More on Mafia:

History of the Sicilian Mafia

Giovanni Falcone: Cosa Nostra

Death of Giovanni Falcone

Main Cities and Areas of Sicily

Among the most popular cities for visitors are Palermo, Catania, and Syracuse. Other popular destinations include Cefalu, Taormina, Agrigento, and Trapani.

Palermo has an urban heartbeat, nightlife, and a great street food scene. It is also home to many of Sicily's main attractions.

The Palatine Chapel and the Monreale Cathedral date back to Norman times. Few places in the world can match their splendor.

For a bit more gritty urban experience, head to Catania on the other side of the island. From there it is easy to make trips to Mount Etna. Or you can settle in nearby Taormina - the total opposite of Catania, with its beautiful scenery and cocktail party atmosphere.

Palermo CathedralPalermo Cathedral.

In the southeast is Syracuse, with its picturesque old town and archaeological treasures. A little trip from there to inland takes you to Sicily's Baroque treasures. These are what John Norwich calls "the sculptures in the shape of towns" - Noto, Modica, and Ragusa.

In western Sicily, you find peace and quiet. And beautiful landscapes. Arabs ruled this area over a thousand years ago. This is still reflected in its traditions, such as food.

Trapani is the main town in this region. From there it is a short trip to Marsala, Segesta, Erice, and the Egadi Islands.

There are also many famous beaches between Palermo and Trapani. Places like Castellammare del Golfo, Scopello and San Vito lo Capo.

The Valley of the Temples is a particular draw for tourists to Agrigento. To the west of the city, there are also many beautiful beaches and the Scala Dei Turchi limestone cliffs.

Scala dei Turchi in Agrigento, Sicily.Scala Dei Turchi, near Agrigento.

See also:

The Main Cities and Areas of Sicily

Palermo

Catania

Syracuse

Cefalu

Taormina

Agrigento

Trapani and Western Sicily

Food in Sicily

Food plays an important role in Sicilian life. Fresh vegetables and seafood are the main ingredients.

Arabic and African influences have left their mark on traditional dishes. This is particularly true in the western part of the island.

Fish is very popular, as is everything else found in the sea from clams to sea urchins.

Fish seller at Ballaro Market in Palermo, SicilyFish seller at Ballaro Market in Palermo.

There are also many local specialties around Sicily. Like pecorino siciliano, made on the slopes of Etna.

Some traditional treats, then again, are found everywhere. Such as arancini and cannoli.

Today Sicily is also a renowned wine producer. The range of grape species grown on the island is diverse. More diverse than anywhere else in Italy.

The best known is Marsala wine. It comes from the city of Marsala in western Sicily.

More on Sicilian cuisine:

Sicilian Food

Sicilian Arancini

Marsala Wine

Sicily in Popular Culture

Many people are familiar with Sicily through popular culture. "The Godfather" is the most famous take on Sicilian culture. 

Of course, you shouldn't consider it - or other mafia movies - a veritable document on Sicilian life. Especially when it comes to Mafia, the reality is much grimmer. And much more banal. 

The author of "Godfather," Mario Puzo, also wrote a book called "The Sicilian." It describes the life of the Sicilian bandit Salvatore Giuliano (1922-1950). The book is a fictional account of the life of this self-made rebel who became a national hero.

Teatro Massimo in Palermo, Sicily.Teatro Massimo in Palermo, where the famous end scene of Godfather III was filmed.

For a more modern glimpse into the Sicilian way of life, you can read Andrea Camilleri. His most famous character is Inspector Montalbano of the fictional town of Vigata.

Camilleri was from near the town of Agrigento in southern Sicily. There you can experience the atmosphere that his books were made of.

Montalbano has also been the subject of a popular TV series. The series was filmed around Sicily. Watching it offers a great way to admire the Sicilian towns and landscapes. As well as guess who was the murderer.

Inspector MontalbanoInspector Montalbano.

Other Sicilian writers include Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa and Luigi Pirandello. Pirandello was also from near Agrigento.

Tomasi was a Sicilian aristocrat. He wrote only one book, The Leopard (Il Gattopardo, 1958). It describes the changes that took place during the unification of Italy in 1860.

The book was also made into a film starring Burt Lancaster in 1963. The rumor has it that there is a remake on its way.

Pirandello, in his part, is famous for his psychologically insightful short stories and plays. He got the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1934.

See more on my pages about:

Sicilian Culture

Andrea Camilleri - The Creator of Montalbano

Mafia Movies

Conclusion

Many people's image of Sicily and Sicilian culture is rather one-sided.

The Mafia is part of Sicilian history. At the same time, it is only one side of this colorful island's past.

For its size, Sicily offers a variety of attractions.

You can spend your time lounging on the beach or have a more active holiday. There is a possibility for adventure tours, wineries, catacombs, festivals, agritourism, and urban life.

For the history buff, Sicily is a real treasure trove. Every place has its history, often dating back thousands of years.

Still, for me, the greatest attraction of all is the island itself - its diverse landscapes, people, and unique culture.

Festival wagon of St. Rosalie, in Palermo, Sicily.

Right now, Sicily is at a rare turning point. The stagnation of the past is giving way to a brighter future.

Yet one can only hope that nothing will change too much. This concern, however, is likely unfounded.

Sicily is an island of strong local communities. Even today, many Sicilians live no more than a few kilometers from their place of birth.

The local festivities go back hundreds - if not thousands - of years. The family is the most important social unit.

Yet the stranger is greeted with an open heart. At least as long as they don't try too hard to change anything.


(Last edited: April 4, 2024)

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